HELLO!! Welcome to the second in the series of gorgeous, cotton crochet spa product tutorials. This time we’re going to make a seriously cute and useful crochet face scrubbie, which works up in no time at all! These are absolutely perfect for removing makeup and applying toner or other products. It’s also so easy – perfect for the beginner crocheter.
You’ll be doing your bit for Planet Earth, too, of course by choosing reusable instead of disposable cotton facial pads and as a bonus, you’re avoiding all of that icky plastic it usually comes packaged in!
Did you know:
“Cotton is thought to be the world’s ‘dirtiest’ crop due to its heavy use of insecticides, using the most dangerous pesticides to human and animal health.1 Cotton covers 2.5% of the world’s cultivated land, yet it accounts for 24% of the world’s insecticide market and 11% of sale of global pesticides; or $2.6 billion worth of pesticides making it the most pesticide-intensive crop grown on the planet.” Source – Organic Authority.
So while yes, we are still using cotton to make our face scrubbies, at least we’re going with a zero-waste, reusable option.
Please note this post contains affiliate links, which just means that if you click these and end up buying something, I may make a tiny commission on the sale, at absolutely no cost to you – that just helps support the cost of running this blog!
If you missed the first crochet spa tutorial, a detailed photo tutorial to help you make a gorgeous soap saver pouch, make sure you check it out HERE.
OK, so let’s get on with this tutorial.
Cotton Yarn – I’m using quite a lightweight yarn that I’ve had for ages – it’s an 8 ply, but thin compared to most. I prefer this for my face scrubbies, but you’re welcome to use any cotton / bamboo / natural fiber yarn you like. I wouldn’t recommend wool, though, unless you want some unexpected exfoliation! A great organic option would be the Simply Cotton Organic Sport Yarn from KnitPicks.
Crochet hook – As cotton can be a bit splitty at times, I definitely recommend going with your glidiest (yes, I think that’s a word) hook. As always I go for my belovedClover Amour soft handled hooks, as I’ve never had any issues with yarn not gliding smoothly over them! I’m using a size E (3.5mm) with my particular yarn.
Darning needle – for sewing in ends
Scissors – for snipping!
Magic Ring – this is the way I highly recommend that you make your starting circle so that you can pull it firmly closed afterwards. I know a lot of beginner crocheters have trouble with the magic ring, in which case you must check out the PlanetJune video tutorial, which is by far the best I’ve seen. It’s also what I used to learn a few years back.
Double Crochet (DC) – I use US terms in this tutorial, and if you’re in the UK, this would be known as a Treble Crochet.
Slip Stitch (Sl St) – This is used to finish off each round before starting the next round. If you’re not sure how to do it, you can find it really clearly explained here on the Lion Brand site.
Start by making a magic ring and then chain 3.
That chain 3 will count as your first DC. Then crochet 11 more DCs into the magic ring, making a total of 12 stitches in this round. Crochet over your starting tail as you go, to make it easier to secure later.
At this point you can use your starting tail to pull your centre ring tightly shut. You can either sew in the last of the tail now or do it at the end. I prefer to leave it!
To close off this round you’re going to slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the chain 3 you started this round with.
To start Round 2, chain 3 again.
As we want our circle to stay nice and flat, we have to increase the number of stitches we do in this round. There’s a really easy way to work out how to do this. Basically, every round will increase by the number of stitches you originally did in your magic ring. As we started with 12 stitches, we need to add another 12 stitches, so we just put 2 DC in each of the stitches from the previous round. Don’t forget that your chain 3 counts as your first DC.
Once you’ve got a total of 24 stitches in your round, slip stitch again into the 3rd chain of your starting chain 3 to finish off Round 2.
Chain 3 to start Round 3.
Now we need to add another 12 stitches to our previous total of 24. To do this, we’re going to alternate 1 DC then 2DC in each stitch around. Our chain 3 counts as our first DC, so we’ll put 2 DC in the next stich, 1 DC in the following stitch, and just repeat this all around until we have a total of 36 stitches.
All you have to do now is finish off the round then use your darning needle to securely weave in your ends. As this crochet face scrubbie will be very frequently washed, I cannot stress enough how important it is to make sure that when you finish off you pull that final knot tightly closed and then really weave the end back and forth under a few stitches.
As you can see in the photo below, you can change the size of your scrubbie by varying the yarn weight, hook size and how many rounds you use. Just remember that if you start with 12 DC in the magic ring, you’ll have to add 12 stitches to each round to keep it flat.
I hope you’ve had fun trying out this tutorial, and that you’ll soon have a whole stash of handmade, eco-friendly crochet face scrubbies on hand. Next in the series of crochet spa products will be the ever-popular shower puff, so make sure you bookmark / Pin / subscribe so you’ll be the first to know when this tutorial is being released.
As always, if you’ve got any questions or comments just pop them below, I love hearing your feedback! Also, if you enjoyed this tutorial I’d be most grateful if you’d pin / share / tweet all about it and share the love! Here’s a ready-made Pin just waiting to find a home on your Pinterest Crochet board!
I’m excited to bring you this photo tutorial on How To Crochet The Suzette Stitch. The Suzette stitch is probably my absolute favourite stitch. I’ve used it for blankets, soap savers, wash cloths, scarves – pretty much everything. It’s such a simple stitch, and yet it creates a really lovely textured finish.
Please note this post contains affiliate links, which just means that if you click these and end up buying something, I may make a tiny commission on the sale, at absolutely no cost to you – that just helps support the cost of running this blog!
Items made using Suzette Stitch also have a lovely, dense fabric without holes, which is great for spa products and anything you want to be really warm and cosy. I’ve also found that the denseness works really well when making crochet baskets, or anything you want to hold its shape well.
It’s basically done by crocheting one single crochet stitch and one double crochet stitch in the same stitch, and then skip the next stitch. In the next stitch you’ll once again do one single crochet and one double crochet stitch, then skip a stitch and continue.
Yarn – any yarn is fine, but I find the stitch definition shows up really beautifully when you use cotton yarn. In this tutorial I’m using Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton Yarn, which I love because it really does show off the stitch definition, and is very sturdy for items that are going to be washed a lot.
Crochet hook – use whatever size is recommended for the yarn weight you’re using. When making spa items – washcloths and soap savers – I tend to go down in hook size just a tiny bit so I get a really dense fabric, which works well when using the cloths.
That’s just optional, though. If you are making a blanket, or anything else you’d like to have a bit more drape, you may want to go up half a size. Just try out a few combinations until you find one that works for you.
In this tutorial I’m using my trusty Clover Amour hook in a size 4mm (US size G). These are pretty much the only hooks I ever use, and trust me, I’ve tried every brand there is! I just find their brushed aluminium tips allow the yarn to glide really smoothly over the yarn, and the soft handles are the only ones that don’t give me wrist and shoulder pain if I’m on a crocheting marathon session!
Please note that I use US terminology throughout in this tutorial.
Starting Chain – this is the first set of chain stitches you make to work into, which will end up creating the very foundation row of your finished item. If you need help making a starting chain, there are lots of excellent online video tutorials you can search for.
Single Crochet – this is called double crochet in the UK.
Double crochet – this is called treble crochet in the UK, and, again, if you need a quick refresher, there are hundreds of online video tutorials available online. I’ll be making some myself soon, so be sure you subscribe so you don’t miss out on new tutorials and patterns coming soon!
That’s it! All you need to know how to do is to chain, single crochet and double crochet – yes, it sounds easy, and that’s because it is!
Start by making a slip knot on your hook and then chaining an even number of chains. In this tutorial I’ve done 22.
In the 2nd chain from the hook (don’t count the loop that’s actually on the hook) make one single crochet stitch.
In that very same stitch, make one double crochet stitch.
SKIP the next chain stitch.
In the following stitch make one single crochet and one double crochet stitch.
SKIP the next chain stitch and repeat along the row until there are 2 stitches remaining.
Skip the 2nd to last chain, and crochet just one single crochet into the last chain stitch.
Turn your work and chain one.
In the very 1st stitch, the one with the turning chain 1, do one single crochet stitch and one double crochet stitch.
SKIP the next stitch. In the next stitch (this will be on top of a single crochet from the previous row) crochet one single crochet stitch and one double crochet stitch.
Continue to repeat this along the row until you have 2 stitches remaining in the row.
Skip the 2nd to last chain, and crochet just one single crochet into the last stitch.
Turn your work and chain one.
Repeat Row 2 until you’ve achieved your desired length.
So, there you go, now you have mastered the beautiful Suzette stitch! Let me know in the comments what you’re planning on making using this stitch. Also let me know if you have any questions at all, I’m happy to help.
As always, any shares and pins of this post are most appreciated, and I hope you’ve enjoyed this photo tutorial on how to crochet the Suzette stitch!
This pattern by Hooks & Loops is simple, stunning and can be used either as a project on its own, or as a start for a basket, bowl or bag.
Our final featured post from this week’s Creative Yarn Link Party is the Charisma Cowl Free Crochet Pattern also by ChristaCoDesign. This is a gorgeous, squishy, cosy cowl worked up in chunky yarn that you can easily whip up in a flash to keep your own neck warm or as a lovely gift. It’s still summer for me here in Australia, but I’ve put this on my list to have made and ready for when our winter kicks in soon!
OK, I hope you’ve enjoyed those featured posts from last week, now it’s time to jump on board and share your own posts for this week’s Creative Yarn Link Party.
The rules are simple:
Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram. I will check, and no follow, no feature, that only seems fair – I’m also really good at following back, because I love a bit of Creative Yarn love in my feeds!
Click through to at least one post others have shared and give it some loving – comment, Pin, share – just anything nice to share the love
Only post your own creations, and no links to sales pages, Etsy etc – just a blog post with some Creative Yarning Fabulousness of your own creation
Post up to 3 links every week, but for each you post, make sure to check out someone else’s and let them know you found them via this link party
Put a link to this party somewhere on your blog – in a post or on your sidebar, it’s up to you.
I like to be all helpful, and I’d like to have this Creative Yarn Link Party open to as many a possible, so below you can find the code you need to put a link or button your own blog or to post on social media.
If you’ve been featured or are sharing this link party, here’s your code –
Instructions: Select all code above, copy it and paste it inside your blog post as HTML
Hi, and welcome to the Stashing Yarn round up of 12 awesome free St Patrick’s Day crochet patterns and tutorials!
Being born as Irish as they come (hello – my name is Tara!) St Patrick’s Day is one of my favourite celebrations of the year. Although I never got the chance to live in Ireland myself, my entire extended family are mostly still there, and my sister and I used to spend every summer in Ireland when we were kids. I will never forget how eternally green it is there, so it makes total sense that St Patrick’s Day Crochet projects usually feature GREEN in every shade!
Ireland is also a land full of ancient lore, so Leprechauns also feature a lot in all things St Patrick’s Day. I’m showing my age here, but I remember being both awed and a bit terrified when my dad took me to see the Disney movie Darby O’Gill and the Little People as a child. Mmmmmm, to a very dapper and young Sean Connery, but YIKES, this had some serious scare factor!
So sorry, am getting distracted by young Sean Connery and childhood memories here, so let’s get on with my round up of 12 totally free and utterly gorgeous St Patrick’s Day crochet patterns and tutorials. I hope you enjoy them! Titles and images are all links to the full patterns.
4. There are so many things you could do with this – sew them onto clothing, make a banner or necklace, add to granny squares – the options are endless! DIY Crochet Shamrocks for St Patrick’s Day by Sugar & Charm
8. There definitely seem to be a lot of crochet hat patterns around when it comes to St Patrick’s Day Crochet projects, and this is one I thought was really cute and also beginner friendly. Lucky Crochet Top Hat by BHooked Crochet
9. Love the snuggly warmth and the different shades of green in this St Patrick’s Day Crochet scarf. Crochet Shamrock Scarf by Repeat Crafter Me
12. It wouldn’t be St Patrick’s Day without talk of beer, so why not whip up a few of these? Leprechaun Hat Beer Cosy by You Should Craft
So, there you have it – a round up of my own very favourite St Patrick’s Day crochet patterns, projects and tutorials! I hope you have fun trying some of them out! I’m about to start making up a whole bunch of shamrock motifs and will decide what to do with them later – too many choices!
Please note this post does contain affiliate links, which just means that if you click these and end up buying something, I may make a tiny commission on the sale, at absolutely no cost to you – that just helps support the cost of running this blog!
Hi, and welcome to the Stashing Yarn photo tutorial for making a crochet soap saver pouch using the gorgeous Suzette Stitch. I’m so excited to share this with you, as it’s a quick and easy project, beginner friendly and you end up with a gorgeous and useful handmade item to use or gift to a loved one!
If you’re a more experienced crocheter and want to miss out on the fun stuff, you’re welcome to scroll down to near the bottom where there’s a more simplified version of the pattern written out.
UPDATE: The next tutorial in the series of gorgeous, reusable, eco-friendly skincare items has just been posted – the Crochet Face Scrubbie Tutorial– so don’t forget to check it out, too!
The idea for making this actually started with a dear friend who started up an eco-friendly handmade candle and soap business last year. You absolutely must have a look at her deliciously scented and lovingly handmade products –FREYJA BLACK. Mentioning her business is not a sponsored mention in any way – as I said, she’s a friend, a fellow single mother trying to make a living, and very talented at what she does, so definitely check her site out!
Anyway, I tried a couple of her amazing soaps, and realised that I really needed something to keep them in, that would double up as a lovely, sudsy washcloth all at the same time.
I saw a few photos online of sewn and crocheted soap savers, and tried making a couple in single and double crochet, but they just weren’t giving me the texture I was after (this gal needs to exfoliate!), so I decided to play around with other stitches to see if I could get a better texture going ensure I get the best out of these amazing soaps.
After some trial and error and discovering a potentially life-long hatred for the bobble stitch, I came to the conclusion that the lovely Suzette stitchwas exactly what this item needed, and have finally put the pattern down on paper. Well, screen, to be fair.
UPDATE: I’ve just posted a full beginner-level photo tutorial on How to Crochet the Suzette Stitch, so if you’re not sure about the stitch itself, or need more detailed instructions, be sure to check this post out!
You can make these any size you like, as you can see in my picture above – depending on the yarn weight, hook size and number of starting chains and rows, this can be adapted to any size. I’ve made one big enough to use as a small handbag!
For that reason, this crochet soap saver pattern doesn’t specify a particular number of starting chains or rows, but in the tutorial below, I started with a chain of 21 stitches with a 3.5mm hook.
Cotton yarn of your choice. I like to use the Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton which comes in a great range of colours and I love working with it and using it for spa products – it washes up beautifully and lasts well. I’ve also dabbled in cotton/bamboo blends and, on one memorable day, some handspun hemp/nettle yarn, which was AMAZING, but not the easiest to work with!
Crochet hook – I’d suggest going slightly down from the yarn’s recommended size, as cotton can have a tendency to stretch a bit. I’m using a 3.5mm Clover Amour hook here, which is, by now, pretty much the only brand I ever use – yarn just glides over it so smoothly – LOVE!!
Scissors and darning needle to work in ends
Chain enough stitches for the width you want – I recommend 9 or 10cm
SC in to the 2nd chain from the hook, then along to end of row.
Now we’re going to bend around the corner so we can work into the other side of the starting chain. These SC rounds will form the base of your crochet soap saver.
To do this, simply do 3 SC in the very first chain you made. If you find your slip knot loosens up as you do this, just pull on the tail to tighten it up. From this point you can also crochet over your tail to hide it.
Turn your work as you work around the corner so you have the bottom side of your starting chain at the top, and SC along to the row. Add in another 2 SC to make 3 in the final stitch of the row, to work around the corner and SS into the first stitch to finish the round.
Chain 1 and SC in the same stitch you made the SS and then 1 SC along the row until you get to the corner where it starts to turn.
Time for the next corner, but we need to increase the number of stitches so that it lays flat.
2 SC into the next stitch, 1 SC in the next, and then 2 SC in the next – turn work as corner forms to keep working in a circle.
SC in each stitch until you get back to where it starts to turn, then 2 SC, then 1 SC, then 1 in the final (there’s already one there, so this makes a total of 2 for this corner). Slip stitch to next stitch to finish.
ROUNDS 3 +
It gets much easier from here on in! We’re going to be changing to Suzette stitch at this point, which gives a lovely texture to your soap saver, and helps the soap foam up. The Suzette stitch is very easy – just a combination of SC and DC, and don’t forget to check out my tutorial if you get stuck.
From this point on we’re also going to be working in continuous rounds, so no finishing off each round – just keep going around and around. You don’t even need to count or mark the start of your rows, as you’re just going to work this until it’s the length suitable for the soap you want to use!
Chain 1, then SC and DC in the same stitch. Skip one stitch, then SC and DC in the next stitch. That’s it! Just Just remember the side facing you will become the outside of the pouch, so as it starts to curl into a bag shape, make sure you’re working on the outside.
Continue this around and around until your soap saver is close to the length you want – I find about 11 cm is good, but it depends on how large of a bar of soap you want to put in it, obviously. There are still a couple of rows above this, so don’t worry if you think it’s not quite enough.
Wait until you’re at one of the sides of the pouch and finish off the round by slip stitching into the next stitch. Chain 3, and then DC all the way around. This will be the row where you’ll thread your drawstring through. Slip stitch into first stitch of the round to complete.
Chain 1, then SC in every stitch around, slip stitch to finish round.
Final round! Slip stitch in every stitch around and then fasten off securely.
Sew in ends.
Chain as many as you need for length – I find about 60 is good if I’ve made the crochet soap saver with a 3.5mm hook. Knot end securely, leaving a tail long enough to thread on a darning needle.. Using the needle, weave your drawstring in and out of the double crochet stitches in the DC row, tie tails together securely and adjust so that the knot is inside the DC stitches.
Simplified instructions for more experienced crocheters
Chain enough to reach approx 9 – 10cm across
SC into 2nd chain from hook, and back along row
3 SC into last chain – turn so you’re working in a circle, into the bottom of the chain stitches
SC back along bottom of chain stitches, and add 2 more SC into final stitch. Slip stitch into next stitch to finish round
Chain 1 and SC all around, adding 2 SC in each of the 4 corners of your oval. Slip stitch into next stitch to finish round
Chain 1, SC and DC into same stitch. Skip 1, SC and DC into next stitch. Repeat, working in continuous rounds until pouch reaches a height of approximately 11/12 cm, depending on size of soap to be used.
Stop when you are at one of the sides of the pouch, slip stitch to finish rounds.
Chain 3, then DC in every stitch around. SS to finish round.
Chain 1, then SC in every stitch around. SS to finish round.
SS in every stitch around – fasten off.
Drawstring – chain until desired length, fasten off leaving tail. With darning needle, thread drawstring in and out of DC stitches, tie tails together and move drawstring around until knot is hidden inside the DCs.
Another tip for more advanced crocheters is that you can vary the look and texture of the Suzette stitch quite a bit by changing around where you place your spaces and stitches. You can either work your stitches into the SC or DC from the previous round, and each give different effects.
I’ll be adding to this pattern with matching face washcloths, shower puffs and facial scrubbies soon, so make sure you subscribe so you don’t miss out. They are not just great to use, but make fabulous and thoughtful gifts, am I right?
I know, it’s such an adorable and silly name for a thing, but a crochet twiddlemuff is a fun and easy crochet or knit item you can make to help someone with dementia, Alzheimers or Autism.
But, what is a crochet twiddlemuff? Good question! It’s a hand muff with lots of different textures and embellishments such as ribbons, buttons, beads, zips and pom poms designed to provide sensory therapy for dementia patients. It provides not only warmth, but a focus for often-restless hands, and has been shown to calm and sooth dementia patients. You can also make them as mats, wrist cuffs, lap blankets or quilts, and the mat versions are also known as “fidget mats” or “fidget quilts”.
“Twiddle Muffs originated in the United Kingdom, where they have been found to lower anxiety because people have something to do with their hands,” Ms Devlin said.
“They lower anxiety, reduce medication and bring people comfort.”
Twiddle Muffs have been found to be useful for many people with special needs in aged care homes, hospitals and schools.”
There’s no set pattern for a twiddlemuff – you can knit, crochet or sew the base, and then embellish as you see fit. Some of the items I’ve seen used include buttons, ribbons, beads, zips, velcro patches, shoe laces, pom poms, squeeze balls, fluffy yarn, crocheted curlicues – basically anything, as long as it provides some sort of sensory stimulation, is securely attached, and is either washable or removable for washing. Small pockets are also great for holding a tissue or similar – I’ve made some small granny squares in matching yarn and sewn them on as pockets.
The crochet twiddlemuffs above are ones I’ve made in the last week, and instructions for these particular ones are as follows:
Scrap yarn – for the base, keep it roughly the same weight of yarn – I used DK acrylic
Darning needle and strong thread (embroidery thread, upholstery thread or dental floss are good)
Backing fabric – I used really thick polar fleece for softness and warmth
Chain 60, or enough with your choice of yarn and hook to obtain width of around 27cm (10.5″)
Turn and chain 2 (does not count as stitch here or elsewhere), then Half Double Crochet across. You can, of course, use any stitch you like, but I’ve found HDC provides a nice, dense base, while still being quite flexible. You can mix up your stitches throughout the piece, too – I like to put in a few rows of bobble stitches for texture. I also do a few rows of DC so I can weave ribbon in and out of the stitches. Just use your imagination and have fun!
Repeat rows, changing stitch and colour any time you like, until piece measures around 36cm (14″) and finish off.
You should now have a crocheted rectangle measuring 27cm X 36cm (approximately)
Add embellishments to crochet rectangle, making sure everything is very securely attached for safety.
Next it’s time to sort out the backing fabric. Measure your rectangle carefully, and cut out a rectangle of fleece that is 1cm smaller on all sides.
You’ll also need to embellish the fleece, so that there are sensory objects on the inside of the muff, too. I like to use a bunch of crocheted curlicues, a pom pom, and a few beads or buttons sew on securely.
Put the wrong sides of the crocheted rectangle and the fleece together and stitch together, leaving a space around the edge of roughly 1cm. I hand stitched mine with a basic blanket stitch, but you could easily use a sewing machine, too. As I changed yarn colour in nearly every row with mine, I obviously had a heap of yarn ends, which I just knotted and tucked inside the backing fabric to avoid having to sew them all in, I mean, who wants to do that?
Another option is to leave all the ends sticking out of the seam and trim them evenly into a cute fringe for some extra texture.
Fold your crochet twiddlemuff in half, fleece side up, so that your starting chain and finishing rows are at the sides, and securely sew together to form a tube.
Attach yarn on the side, next to the seam, and crochet 2 rows of HDC around the cuff, and finish with a row of slip stitch to give a nice finish. Repeat for the other side, turn inside out and your twiddlemuff is ready to go!
The Crochet For Charity group I’m a part of are making these to donate to hospitals and nursing homes with dementia care units, where we hope they’ll bring some joy and calmness. You may want to make one for a friend or family member – they’re also popular to help kids with autism, anxiety and many other conditions.
As always, Pins, shares and comments are all much appreciated – if you’ve made a crochet twiddlemuff before, or have seen how they can help, please do drop me a comment below.